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Saturday, September 13, 2014

Pant Drafting Part 4

Drafting The Back Pant
Since the basic shape has been established on the front pant draft, we will draft the back pant over the front. Use a different color pen or pencil for drafting the back pant. Once the back pant as been drafted, we will then trace the back pant on to a separate piece of paper.

Divide D to K in half and mark as R.
Connect C to R with a straight line.
 Extend up from R 3/4" (1" if you have rounded hips) and mark as S.
 Extend out from A. S to T is 1/4 of waist measurement plus 2" for dart allowance.
 At P, extend out 1/2" and mark as U.
 Connect T to U with a curved line.
 Connect U to N with a straight line.
Measure out from E 1 1/4" and mark as V. For a large bottom, measure out 1 1/2".
From V measure down 1/4" and mark as W.
 Transfer F to S-C line.
G to C was divided into 3 equal sections. Mark the first section as I.
 Connect F to I and I to W with a curved line. 
 Measure in 1/2 from W and mark as X.
 From X, draw a straight line to M.
In our next post we will add in the darts and talk about slimming the pant. Look for the next post on Monday.



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7 comments:

  1. These instructions are fabulous. I am going to try this, but it won't be anytime soon. Too much other stuff taking priority right now. I still haven't finished my rectangles Tee.........at least it's started......LOL

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  2. This is all so fascinating, thank you.

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  3. Hi Rhonda,
    I really find this process fascinating and as the owner of a flat bottom (!), I can't wait to try this method out to achieve better fitting pants. Two questions, are there any changes flat bottomed women should think of in terms of the ratios you use ( I noticed you commented on adding to a measurement (S) if you have a round bottom). Also in this instruction from yesterday, I am confused: " D to Q is 1/4 of waist measurement plus 2" for darts. So if your waist measurement is 28", add 2" for the dart allowance. Divide 30 by 4. The result is 6. In this example D to Q would be 6"., I am wondering if the final measurement should not be 8.5"? Thanks in advance for your help… :-)

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    1. As for a flat bottom adjustment, that's something that can be taken care of in the fitting.
      Thanks for catching me on my math. The correct answer would actually be 7.5" , 30 divided by 4 is 7.5. Thanks again. I'll make the correction.

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  4. Thanks for replying, Rhonda.
    Math was never my strong suit as you can tell!!!!!!!

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    1. You saw my mistake. It was just a matter of 2 heads being better than one ;)

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